Category: Travel

Photo The winner of the inaugural Le Mans 24 Hour race, the Chenard-Walcker.

Auto racing honors the ghosts of their past in a way few sports can. Cars endure, unlike uniforms or equipment. Winning cars are a select class of memorabilia. The ghosts of Le Mans past are alive and well in the Musee Des 24 Heures, the museum located at the north main entrance to the track.

Getting to the museum was a bit of a hike from the closest bus stop, but it was well worth the time. Admission is free during race week for fans with event tickets. The rest of the year it is 12 Euros, about the same amount that IMS charged when the museum was open. The admission price I saved easily became moot during the post museum visit to the gift shop.

As happens each time I visit my beloved IMS Museum, goosebumps sprouted on my arms at the first steps inside. I liked the presentation, and I hope IMS will use some of these concepts when they reopen next April.

The journey into the past begins in what is essentially a Hall of Fame of sorts. Race founders, owners, and drivers greet vistors from banners on both side of the corridor. Biographical plaques are in French and English.

After the Heroes’ walk, the next room is one ofr the most amazing displays i have ever seen. The room contains a detailed diorama of the circuit in its center. Against the walls of this circular space are display cases of diecast cars-virtually one of every car to race at Le Mans. The models are arranged by years, withe podium finishers on a stand.

I noticed a familiar name on the diorama

Cars by Decades

Of course the machines are the heart of the place. The museum has the race cars grouped by decades. I loved this concept. It is easy to see the development of aerodynamics and safety improvements. I have a better understanding of how the modern car evolved. The 1950s seems to be th era when aerodynamic ideas fully took shape.

This is just my opinion, but the cars of the 1980s are some of the most unattractive cars as a group I have ever seen. They are bulky and overly wide. Some of the collection.

Chills

The names on this 1994 car gave me chills. This car finished second in the race.

My journey through the museum brought me back to being that 12-year-old kid, reading tales of a romantic all day and night race half a world away, wondering what it was like to race at this track. It is hard to imagine racing 24 hours in a roofless car, or even racing as part of only a two driver team. I also wondered if I could ever come see this race in person. Can my dreams of seeing F1 at Spa or Monaco be far behind?

Dreams can come true. Sometimes it just takes 65 years. I stood staring at the entry gate to Circuit de le Sarthe for several minutes before I walked through Porte Est, the gate at the end of the tram line. The problem with dreams sometimes is that when they become real, they don’t live up to what you imagined. Le Mans, however, exceeded what I imagined.

Like Indianapolis Motor Speedway, I got the immediate sense that this is hallowed ground. The century of history grabbed me the moment I saw the Dunlop bridge and saw directional signs for the corners I have heard about all my life- Tetre Rouge, Arnage, Mulsanne- no longer just places in my imagination.

As I expected, an 8.467 mile track requires a huge footprint. Road America is probably the largest track footprint I have seen. Le Mans is twice the size of the Wisconsin venue. I thought I had covered a lot of it yesterday, but the track map contradicted my thoughts. I made it to just about a quarter mile past the Dunlop bridge

The fan village is massive. Full blown restaurants and bars, not just food stands and kiosks dot the area leading to paddock in all directions. One stand makes crepes to order. There is a stand to charge electronics at no cost.

Across the bridge in the infield is another large complex of food stands. I have never seen such a variety of food at a track, or so many vegetarian options.

I have never seen a cleaner race track. Given the size of the place, management does an impressive job of keeping trash picked up and the grounds clean. Le Mans has recycling containers in may places.

The track surface itself is in excellent shape. It appears to have been repaved recently. The front stretch has grid markings for motorcycles.

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Monday’s adventures include a trip to the track museum and a tour of the old city of Le Mans. Last night was the best night’s sleep I have had since I arrived, a restful night of fulfilled dreams. Don’t give up on your dreams.